Waterproofing Installation

Clean / rasp the block face thoroughly clear of debris and remove any yellowing from UV breakdown. You may use a broom, brush, or wash the walls. Walls must be free from all oxidation and debris.
Fill any holes or major openings in the foam surface, rasp the foam level and smooth with the foam surface.
Apply an ICF primer to help the adhesive stick.

Precut membrane for lengths of the entire height of the backfilled wall plus 12” above grade and an additional 4” for the base.
Attach membrane to the wall beginning at 1’ above backfill grade and roll downward, overlapping 4” and terminating 4” or 6” over the footing.
1. Only remove about 12” of the backing at a time from the top working down as you attach the membrane to the wall.
2. Work slowly and eliminate air bubbles as you work down the wall. Be cautious not to damage the membrane.

Seal the top of the membrane with a thin strip of metal or wood to keep the membrane from releasing from the wall.
1. The DMX attach brackets may work well for this. You do not want any construction debris to get behind this membrane either.
Use an adhesive caulk such as NP1 to seal the membrane against the concrete and seal the bottom edges.
1. It is very important to seal the bottom edge thoroughly.
Use an ICF-friendly mastic such as Hydrocide 800 B to cover all terminations and edge seams in the membrane, top and sides, on the outside of all seams.
Follow manufacturing installation instructions to attach a protection mat such as DMX at the top of the wall. This prevents damage from backfill material which could punch or tear holes in the membrane.
Do not screw into the membrane to attach the DMX or platon products to the wall unless above grade only.

Use mastic to secure the bottom of the material. Backfill as soon as possible once floor system is in place.

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